Seaside Sailor Sew-a-long Day 3: Sewing the Bodice

TDD Seaside Sailor Sew-a-long links:
Day 1: Preparing the Pattern
Day 2: Cutting Out and Collar Assembly
Day 3: Sewing the Bodice (that's today!)

Let's get sewing on Day 3 of our Seaside Sailor Sew-a-long!  Your collar is assembled and ready to go (if not see Day 2) so today's sewing should be pretty straightforward and quick.  You will need:

1.  Let's start by making the tie strip.  If you're making a baby size dress you can skip down to step 3.  Follow the pattern's instructions for folding and sewing your tie.  Below are some pictures to help you out!

After sewing the ends of your tie should look like this.
Trim the ends so that they look like this.
It is important to trim the seam allowance of the points for a nicely turned tie.
Trim very close to the point.
Cut across the corner like this.
Fold your ties in half lengthwise and cut on the fold line.
You now have two ties!
This might be the trickiest part of today's sewing.
I find it helpful to press the ties on the seam and fold as pictured to get started.
Now using a pointy object (in my case a small screwdriver)
poke the end of your tie inside
You should now have this!
Keep pressing the point of the tie through the tube until you can grab the end.
Now use your pointed object to poke out your corners.
Press well.  I use my fingers to roll the seam right to the
edge the press with lots of steam.
Congratulations, your ties are done!
If you are using lace for your ties this process is a little shorter for you.  Simply cut the ends of your lace at a 45 degree angle (my lace is shown before angling the end) and cut in half lengthwise.  If you are using two layers of lace as I did baste together aligning the bound edge.  I used a 4" wide lace layered with 1 1/2' lace.  

2.  Next, attach your ties to the shoulder of your main bodice piece as per the instructions.  I used my favorite sewing ruler here to help pleat my tie.  

When pleating my lace I pleated to 1 1/2" for a fuller look. Do make sure that you have at least 5/8" on both sides of the shoulder seam so that your ties will not get sewn into either the neck or armhole seams.

3.  Baby size sewing starts here! Fold under the bottom edge of your lining 1/2".  This sets you up to be able to enclose the waist seam later on.
4.  Sew the shoulder seams of both your main fabric and lining fabric.
5.  Baste the collar in place on your main bodice. At this point make sure that the point of each collar piece is aligned with the notch on the bodice front.
6.  Lay your lining right sides together with your bodice and sew. Match the shoulder seams, front notches, and bottom edges.  Start sewing at the bottom edge of the center front.  Sew up the center, around the collar, and down the opposite front side.  Sewing at this step takes a little care. I suggest sewing with your needle in the down position as you will need to pivot around corners on both front edges.
7.  Now sew the armholes as directed in the pattern.
8.  Next clip and snip in all the right places.  Clip the inner corner and snip across the outer corner on the center front.  It will be impossible to poke out the center front corner without this step.  Clip the neckline and armhole curves also.  This will allow your bodice to lay nicely when turned. Jen included an excellent diagram in the pattern.
9.  Turn your bodice right sides out.  I found it easy to grab the collar and pull it through.  Use a pointed object, I used my favorite sewing ruler here, to poke out the center front corner. Take time to press well, rolling the seams right to the edge.

Looking good!
10.  Edgestitch according to the instructions. (I left it up to Jen to take that difficult picture!)
11. Finally, sew the side seams.  I don't need to repeat Jen's excellent instructions.  You are on page 11 of the girls pattern and page 9 for baby sizes.  When sewing seams as these, I place my first pin on the seam, making sure they are matched up accurately, then work my way out.

Do make sure you take a look at how to notch the underarm.  I had never seen this technique before, and it really helps to reduce the bulk! Press this seam and you are done for today!

Make sure you check in on the daily thread in the Tie Dye Diva Sewing Pattern group on Facebook.  WE LOVE GIVEAWAYS!  Ask your questions there (don't be shy!) Jen, Erica and myself will be ready to help all we can!