Wednesday, August 24, 2016

Under Construction!

Our latest WIP at Tie Dye Diva is this blog, so if it's looking funny for a few days be assured it will be back in shape before too long!


Friday, August 19, 2016

Tutorial - Adding Built-in Shorts to the Potato Chip and Garnet Skirts!

We love skirts in our house. They are the perfect everyday wear paired with a cute tee.  But, without fail, we need to put shorts beneath.  Try as I do to teach Sweet Pea to be ladylike, little bike shorts or some kind of undershorts are still a necessity.



Skirts are the perfect back to school wear too, but when it comes to storytime on the carpet and playing on the playground, bring on the shorts!

Today I'm showing you how to add attached shorts to both the Potato Chip and Garnet Skirt. Some people call these "monkeybar skirts". You will need the Sterling Shorties and Leggings Pattern as well as the Potato Chip Skirt Pattern and/or Garnet Pattern.  All three of these patterns include size 12-18 months through 9/10 (the Potato Chip Skirt also includes sizes 11/12 and 13/14).


Sterling Shorties and Leggings are incredibly versatile and a pattern you will use over and over again.  Designed for 4-way stretch knit, make ruffled shorts, ruffled leggings, or plain leggings.  The perfect everyday staple.  Use the shorties pattern without the ruffles for under skirts and dresses (attached or unattached) as we will today.


The Potato Chip Skirt pretty much speaks for itself.  You can't stop at just one! Classic a-line shape with flat front and elastic back.  Don't forget about the pockets!  Make your skirt lined, unlined (for heavier bottom weight or denim fabric) or reversible for two looks in one skirt.  The classic styling of this skirts makes it appropriate for many school uniforms too.


And finally, the Garnet Dress, Top, and Skirt Pattern.  Talk about loaded with options.  Make long or short sleeved dress or tee. Paneled or single fabric skirt or dress.  Make it from all knit, or use knit for the bodice and woven for the skirt.  There's a total of 19 different combinations possible with this one pattern!  For even more style options make sure you read last week's blog post to omit the collar and use a neckband instead. Today I've made both a long sleeve tee and paneled skirt.

Today I am again using the gorgeous Season of Love collection by Ana Davis for Blend Fabrics. This is an Indian-inspired collection featuring elephants and peacocks in mint, coral, and yellow tones.This fabric has been provided to us free of charge so we can bring you awesome tutorials like this one.

Take a closer look at these lovely prints.  They are simply stunning in person!




The Season of Love collection's just been released and as of right now is a little scarce online. You can find some prints from this collection for pre-order at The Palm Cottage on Etsy, or you can contact Blend Fabrics and they will help you find a store near you that carries Season of Love. {EDITED: In stock now at The Palm Cottage, go take a look!}

Let's add some shorties!  This is a super simple modification that will literally only add a couple of minutes to your sewing time. We're making a size 2 width and 3 length in all the patterns, which is Sweet Pea's size by the size charts.

Starting with the Sterling Shorties pattern, print and assemble your pattern using the shorties cutting line.  Because we will not be making a folded casing at the waistband, measure down 3/4" from the top edge and use this as your cutting line.


Sew shorties according to instructions (we're using the no ruffle hem, option a) through step 3.


Set the shorties aside.  Cut and assemble your skirt up to the point of adding the waistband.  For my Potato Chip Skirt I used the reversible view (even thought the skirt is not reversible with attached shorties) because quilting cottons are generally not heavy enough for an unlined skirt.


On Shorties and Garnet skirt, mark center front, center back, and sides.  Mark only center front and back on the Potato Chip skirt and use the side seams (even though the back is wider). With both skirt and shorties right side out, slide the shorties inside the skirt and match front, back, and sides.



On this size 2 the Potato Chip Skirt and shorties will match nearly exactly across the front and need to be stretched to fit across the back.  This is correct, the elastic in the back will pull the skirt and shorties in as needed.


The Garnet skirt is slightly bigger than the shorties around the waist.  We are stretching the shorties to fit.


Baste skirt and shorties together using a 1/4" seam allowance.  A couple extra notes here.  Your Potato Chip Skirt may feel a little awkward at this point because of the higher back rise of the shorties.  This is okay.  Once the elastic is added to the waistband, they will be perfect.

Notice that little tuck of extra fabric at the back.
Second, I strongly recommend adding a tag to the back of your garnet skirt with attached shorties.  The Garnet Skirt by itself does not have a specific front and back, but because of the rise difference  between front and back of the Sterling Shorties, there is a specific front and back with attached shorties. I have used a size tag here, but a simple loop of ribbon works just as well.


Now simply add your waistband according to the pattern instructions.  Your skirt with attached shorties is done!



Don't forget about Dolly Patterns to match.  Both the Potato Chip Skirt and Garnet Patterns have matching dolly patterns available.  I've make the Potato Chip Dolly Skirt and a Garnet Tee for Dolly.


Could she look any happier?
Now we're playground and school ready!  In case there's any question as to why add undershorts, let me show you what happens in real life, instead of posed pictures!




And Garnet Skirts are made for twirling and running down hills!




But all this fun usually ends up on the ground....



Saturday, August 13, 2016

Back to School Sewing for Girls (on the Cali & Co Blog)

Blogging about Back to School sewing for girls today over at Cali & Co. Learn about this darling chambray Potato Chip Skirt and Garnet Tee, made with yesterday's tutorial on sewing a neckband on a tee (instead of the collar included in the Garnet pattern).

https://blog.califabrics.com/2016/08/13/a-skirt-tee-for-back-to-school/




See the post here: https://blog.califabrics.com/2016/08/13/a-skirt-tee-for-back-to-school/

Don't miss entering the $100 CaliFabrics giveaway while you are there- $100 goes a long way at CaliFabrics!


https://blog.califabrics.com/1543-2/

The final part in the Back to School sewing trilogy coming up soon!



Friday, August 12, 2016

Omitting the Collar on The Garnet Dress / How to Sew a Neck Band on any Knit Tee

I adore our Garnet Dress, Top and Skirt Pattern for Girls! When the pattern was first released last winter Sweet Pea had six of them in her closet! Now it's time to sew some more.

The Garnet Pattern features a knit bodice with drop waist and a twirly circle skirt that can be made from either knit or woven fabric. The sewing pattern includes options for making a dress, skirt, or top. You can choose from a single fabric skirt or paneled skirt, and long sleeves (plain or ruched) or short sleeves. That's 19 ways to sew this pattern - it really is a versatile sewing pattern that you will grab over and over through every season. The pattern includes sizes 12/18 months through girls 9/10 and truly suits all ages!


The Garnet pattern also includes an adorable, petite collar designed for woven fabric.  It is sweet perfection.  But, sometimes you want to do something different.  Today I'll show you how to omit the collar and sew a neck band on your Garnet Dress or Top. Use this method when making the Top view and you get a perfect basic, girly tee for every day and layering!


I have the pleasure of using the gorgeous Season of Love collection by Ana Davis for Blend Fabrics. This is an Indian-inspired collection featuring elephants and peacocks in mint, coral, and yellow tones.This fabric has been provided to us free of charge so we can bring you awesome tutorials like this one.


Take a closer look at these gorgeous elephants I'm using today!


You might also love the pink colorway of this print. Swoon!

Image courtesy of Blend Fabrics
The Season of Love collection's just been released and as of right now is a little scarce online. You can find some prints from this collection for pre-order at The Palm Cottage on Etsy, or you can contact Blend Fabrics and they will help you find a store near you that carries Season of Love.
The Season of Love collection's just been released and as of right now is a little scarce online. You can find some prints from this collection for pre-order at The Palm Cottage on Etsy, or you can contact Blend Fabrics and they will help you find a store near you that carries Season of Love. {EDITED: In stock now at The Palm Cottage, go take a look!}

Ready to add a neckband?  Me too!  I couldn't be happier with how this modification turned out. Begin by printing and assembling and cutting out your Garnet Pattern. Do not cut out the collar or neck binding pieces.

Before I started constructing my bodice, I decided to dress up the tee portion just a bit. I used this Button Necklace Tee Tutorial (make sure you check out how tiny Sweet Pea was!) with just a couple modifications.  I added the embellishment before any sewing and simply sewed the rick rack ends into the shoulder seams instead of around the entire neck. I also only made one 'strand' instead of two.


Now we're ready to construct the bodice for a neckband.
  • First, sew and finish the shoulder seams.  You may wish to reinforce these seams with a piece of clear elastic.
  • Next, measure the neck opening at the seam line (3/8" from the edge).  I find the easiest way to do this is to mark the seam lines on the pattern pieces and measure from there.  Here you see I marked the 3/8" shoulder and neck seams (in red). Do not include the shoulder seam in your measurement.
 

  • Now for just a little bit of easy math.  Remember that both front and back are cut on the fold so double your measured numbers. I'll add my numbers for a 3T in parentheses. (Front = 9", Back = 7.25")
    • Add the total length of the front and back neck edges together. (9 + 7.25 = 16.25) 
    • Multiply that number by .8. (16.25 x .8 = 13)
    • Add .75 for the seam allowance. (13 + .75 = 13.75)
    • This is the length needed for your neckband.
  • Cut your neck band the length found above (13.75" for 3T) by 1.5" wide.  
  • Fold with long edges together and press a crease.
  • Open the neckband back up and sew the short sides with right sides together to form a loop.  Press this seam open and refold on the crease.
  • Now mark quarter points on both your neckband and bodice neck edge. On the bodice first find center front and back by folding on the shoulder seams. then match center front and back to find the side quarter points. The side quarter points will be slightly to the front of the shoulder seams.

  • Pin neckband and neck edge right sides together. Match quarter points, placing the neckband seam at the center back and adding pins between points.

  • Sew using a stretching stitch (described on page 5 of the Garnet pattern).  Be sure to stretch the neck band to match the neck edge, but do not stretch the bodice neck edge. Finish this seam.
  • Press well using steam.  Press the seam towards the bodice.  Optionally, topstitch.  I prefer to topstitich and do so with a twin needle (if you've never used a twin needle check out Jen's tutorial).  It keeps the seam neatly secured in place.


Finish your Garnet per the pattern instructions. Because my main skirt fabric is a directional print, I used the Pink Pin Tip on page 4 to add side seams to my skirt. The full circle skirt makes it nice and twirly!



Take a closer look at this beautiful print!
Another option finishing the neckline is to make a neck binding (rather than this neck band we've made today).  The order of construction and measurement are the same.  Simply use this Neck Binding Tutorial for the actual sewing of the neck edge.  It gives a slightly different look. 

I love the knit bodice on this dress.  It makes it perfect for everyday comfort wear.  Throw some Sterling Shorties (minus the ruffles) underneath and you're playground ready.  Perfect for Back to School.  For more Back to School styles from this lovely Season of Love fabric, be sure to check back next week!

 The Garnet Dress, Top, and Skirt pattern is available for download at www.tiedyedivapatterns.com.