Seaside Sailor Sew-a-long Day 2: Sewing the Collar

TDD Seaside Sailor Sew-a-long links:
Day 1: Preparing the Pattern
Day 2: Cutting Out and Collar Assembly (that's today!)

Welcome to Seaside Sailor Sew-a-long Day 2! Is your pattern printed and ready to go? Did you choose your fabric? Great! Let's get ready to cut.

Yesterday you chose your dress size based on chest measurement. Now let's look at height and length. If your dress wearer's height is in the same size range as their chest measurement, you get off easy! Just cut that size! If their height falls in a different size range than their chest measurement simply cut the bodice and skirt length in accordance with their height. For example your may cut a size 3 width according to the chest measurement but a size 4 length.  You may find it helpful to use a highlighter and mark the width and lengths you need to cut for your skirt pieces.

There is one last pattern option to consider before cutting out your dress.  Jen and I really brainstormed some extra sweet pattern variations just for this sew-a-long.  Yesterday I showed you a lace tie option.  To go with that, I am also going to show you how to make these simply sweet hem pleats.  They really add a fantastic detail to this dress!  I highly encourage you to try them.  If you would like to make hem pleats in your dress, add three inches to your skirt length.

Historically pleats similar to these were added the hem of girls dresses when they were first made and would be let down as skirts got to short!  What a great way to get more wear from your beautiful dresses.  Even if you don't plan to let them out with time, the detail adds a perfect vintage charm to Jen's amazing vintage inspired sailor dress!

I've made three versions of the Seaside sailor for the sew-a-long. Here are my fabrics I used.
Fun red and blue fish for the 4th of July.
White collar with red collar lining.

Main yellow print here is Riley Blake Simply Sweet Rainbow Swirls.
Red is for the collar and green for the ties

Floral main fabric is part of the Mary Rose Collection from Quilt Gate
White collar and lace for the ties.
Each of these dresses is unique in their own way.  I love them all! Nautical, cute and fun, sweet and frilly.

Let's get to cutting! These are the pieces you should have cut when done:

Today we are sewing the collar.  Grab your main collar piece and set the rest aside.  

The trim options are nearly endless for this amazing collar.  Several are outlined in the pattern plus I'll show you a few more here.

I have just a few pointers for how to best apply each trim option.  

If you want to add scallops to your hem follow these simple instructions.

These are the tools I used.  Ruler, 2" circle tmeplate, and Frixon Pen

Sew your selected trim in place and lay the collar lining and interfacing right sides together with your main collar.  Sew according to the pattern.  If you are sewing scallops remember that the line you marked is your stitching line.  Sew with your needle in the down position and raise your presser foot to pivot your fabric every two stitches.  This will help give nice rounded curves.  If you are still having trouble try using a slightly shorter stitch length.

Clip the corners and notch the curves as per the pattern.  This is essential to a crisp turned collar.  If you sewed scallops those need clipped and notched too!  Clip into the point where each scallop meets.  Then notch the curves of the scallops.

Turn you collar and press it will.  I use a pointed object such as a knitting needle or a thin flat ruler to help press out crisp corners and rounded scallops.  

Remember to topstitch your collar.  This will keep it looking nice and crisp wash after wash and provides a
professional finish.

Congratulations, you are done for today!  Head over to the Tie Dye Diva Sewing Pattern group on Facebook and check in on the daily sewing thread. THERE WILL BE A GIVEAWAY HAPPENING THERE TODAY!  Ask your questions there (don't be shy!) Jen, Erica and myself will be ready to help all we can!

Tomorrow we will sew the bodice together.  See you back here then!