Day 2! Who’s ready to dive in? Are you making a top or dress? Flutters or not? Adding pockets? With those decisions made and your pattern altered as necessary yesterday, you are ready to cut out your Daffodil. If you're just joining us today, make sure to check out yesterday's Sew Along post. There's plenty of time to catch up and join the fun!
If you’re adding flutters go ahead and print off the Universal Flutter pattern available in the Files section of the Tie Dye Diva Facebook group. Do not cut out flutters today though. There are a few simple modifications that need made for adding it to a Daffodil. We will address those tomorrow along with sewing a top or dress including flutters. Do however measure 1 ½” (1" for sizes 2T and smaller) from the bottom of the armhole and straight across the side pattern piece. Mark this spot on the curved side of the pattern piece with two notches. This will be the placement mark for the flutters.
Also, mark the front and side pattern pieces for pocket placement if you plan to include pockets. To do this, measure down from the underarm seam and mark with a dot using a fabric marking pen. Use the following measurement as a guideline for pocket placement.
Cut out your main pattern pieces. Be sure to transfer all markings. Markings included on the pattern are:
T shaped notch
Extras for Sew Along options include:
While cutting, also cut out 4 pocket pieces. These can be from the same fabric or a solid fabric. If your fabric is light colored, check for show through and choose a light colored solid accordingly. I chose a solid, light pink for these pockets.
If you own the Hello Hoodie pattern, these pockets work well. If not, it is easy to draw your own pattern. Simply draw an elongated/angled D shape that fits your models hands plus room for seam allowance (leave more room around the finger tips than I did here!) Make sure that the pocket opening is 4" so that your hands can reach in to check for treasures.
Don't forget to cut about the tuxedo ruffle (if you’re adding it) and placket strip. There are no pattern pieces for these, instead, refer to the cutting chart on page 3.
The placket binding is typically made from the same fabric as your main pieces. A subtle contrast can be a fun look though also. I do not recommend a harshly contrasting fabric though as it will draw unnecessary attention to the placket.
When cutting your tuxedo ruffle, decide if you will finish the edges with a rolled hem or sew in a tube. Both options are included in the pattern. Refer to the Pink Pin tip on the bottom of page 3 for rolled hem finish cutting dimensions.
Why should you choose tube turned versus rolled hem? Well, it's purely personal preference. If you do not have a serger, then tube turned is the logical choice as it does not require finishing the edges. A tube turned ruffle also has a little extra body as it is double instead of single layers of fabric. As for finishing with a rolled hem, it uses slightly less fabric (this is very minor!) and also allows for a contrast stitch on the ruffle edge. I especially like this if I’m using busy fabric as it helps set off the ruffle just a bit.
Let’s start sewing! Sewing today is very straight forward. The only extra step added today is adding pockets to the side seams. Sew steps 1 and 2 just as stated in the pattern. This leads you through sewing and attaching the tuxedo ruffle and completing the placket in the back. If you are adding pockets, pause before continuing to step 3.
|Tube turned ruffle|
If not using a tuxedo ruffle you may consider adding ribbon or other trim or simply a button or two.
|Rolled hem ruffle|
Pockets can be added to either the front seams or the side seams, depending on your preference. I have done one of both, but my instructions are geared toward adding them to the side seam. Keep in mind that adding pockets to the front seam interferes with some decorative trim additions on the front. If you prefer to add them to the front seam, refer to these steps at that point in sewing (tomorrow if adding flutters and Thursday for traditional construction).
Pockets are quite simple to add and who doesn't love a place to keep treasures! Grab the four pocket pieces cut earlier. Finish the edges all the way around the pockets. Also finish the edges of the side seams. I serged the edges, but a zig zag stitch will also work.
Place two pockets right sides together on the front piece with the top of pocket aligned with the top of the large marked dot. Sew using a ⅜” seam allowance.
Press the pockets toward the seam allowance. Do not turn under the seam allowance - press the pocket only.
Next, place the side pieces right sides together aligning side edges and pocket. Sew down the side seam going around the pocket.
Press this seam towards the front. Repeat for the other side. Your pockets are complete!
Finally, complete steps 3 and 4 starting on page 6 of the Daffodil pattern. These steps will add bias to the armholes (stitching it down will come later) and creating the side elastic casings. If it's your first time sewing bias on an armhole, take your time and go slow. Bias by nature stretches so that it can be curved. Take time to lift the presser foot and smooth the bias aligning it with the edge of the armhole.
Each piece is now ready to complete the main construction over the next two days. If you have chosen the flutter option, we will sew that tomorrow. Inserting the flutter requires a different order of sewing than that set forth in the Daffodil Pattern. Traditional construction without flutters will be addressed on Thursday. See you back here tomorrow!
Daffodil Sew Along Links:
Day 1: Preparing the pattern
Labels: daffodil top pattern, inseam pockets, sew along, tie dye diva